![]() I use volume measurements but for this, potassium ferricyanide, one gram does equal one mL so it does not matter. Make a bleach solution (which keeps forever in a bottle, if not always kept in bright sunlight). You are rewarded with a dense, ugly mess that depresses you greatly. So you expose at that speed in your camera, then process as usual in a robust developer, normal stop bath, and normal fixer. Let's say that the film involved is not too old and is rated at ISO 200. Holding it up to a light bulb, however, will reveal a real image. NOTA BENE: with that orange mask you might have to opt for a bit more contrast in the neg, as that mask can serve to slightly filter your VC paper into a lower grade.Īgain, when you process C-41 film as B&W, (yes, even E-6 can be done this basic way) you acquire an extremely dense negative that most will simply discard (because it is so ugly). You are looking for a good negative that will print well, so, as with B&W, you want shadow detail and good differentiation between highlights and shadows. ![]() ![]() After the development, stop, and fix, then blix, you will be in a position to determine whether you should modify your Dektol dilution and/or development timing, and film exposure, (but not before after you are finished blixing). I find Dektol superb for doing this you will have to process films a few times before you nail down your procedure, I suggest you expose a roll, then cut it into segments of a couple of inches (in the dark, or course) so that you will have multiple tries for one roll total (Why waste so much film?) You can start with Dektol diulted about 1 + 19 and work from there, choosing a convenient (ambient?) temp and time (how is 8 minutes?). There are more steps involved, in that, after fixation you need to 'blix' the film in order to 'bring back' that nice orange mask back into transparency. Older film, as well, will require more development time and/or more developer strength.īasically, you need to develop the film more robustly because of the diminution of silver, but you can still acquire a good negative. Depending upon how old the film is, you rate it accordingly, giving more exposure as needed. With these films, in a C-41 process, the silver image is bleached away and the dye cloud negative image remains, just as with C-41 color films.Here is how to do this. These are essentially color films, but instead of three layers with filtration and different dye couplers, these films have a single layer of sensitive emultion, no filter layer(s), and dye couplers balance to produce a black image (by producing all three dyes in visually equal amounts). The only other way to get a B&W negative with a color process is to use a so-called "chromogenic" B&W film, like Ilford XP2 Super or the Kodak equivalent. With no dye couplers in your B&W film, you won't get a dye cloud image, but if you don't bleach the silver, you'll still get a silver negative images, just like what you'd get in D-76 or Rodinal. Any color developer will produce a silver image in any conventional film - but standard color processes bleach away the silver to leave only the color dye clouds that form the final (either positive or negative) color image. There's one "color" process that might have produced an image like the one shown (though it appears the negative was "distressed" in some manner as well): that's developing with any of the three developers, C-41, E-6 First Developer, or E-6 Color Developer, then stopping and fixing with non-bleaching fixer (like conventional B&W fixer or C-41 fixer, not blix), without going through the bleaching step (often combined with fixing in home color developing kits). Stabilize with "stabilizer" (whatever that is and does).Fix to remove all the remaining silver leaving the dye image that was coupled to the silver in the second (colour) development.At this point, you are developing all the remaining silver that has not been bleached. You have already removed the negative image. Re-develop the re-exposed image in colour developer (one with colour coupler(s) added) to completion.Expose the film to light or chemical fog to render the remaining undeveloped silver image (which is positive).Bleach the existing negative metallic silver image which will make it water soluble.Stop development at the appropriate time with stop bath.The first developer works to provide the negative silver image.In effect, you are going to produce a "stain" image similar to "pyrogallol"/"Pyrocatechin" developed images The secret is in how colour coupling works on a silver image. Developing a Black & White film as colour film will leave a dye image rather than a metallic silver one.
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